Wrinkles are a common problem to nearly all middle-aged men and woman. Anti-aging, wrinkle creams, and repair products go by several names and come in a number of different categories. I have handpicked my favorites from a number of different product lines to help you sort through all of the confusing hype. Here are the ones that I recommend:
Retinols or Vitamin A cousins
1. Retinol Complex by SkinMedica – $53 US
This retinol also has vitamin E in a light base that will not clog pores and is still compatible with moisturizers and sunscreens. Retinols are another type of repair cream that have science behind them. They build collagen and normalize sun damaged keratinocytes (skin cells). And if this product irritates your skin a little, try applying your moisturizer first, then wait 10-20 minutes, then apply this.
2. La Roche Posay Biomedic Retinol 30 and 60 - $54 US & $57 US
Another very good over-the counter retinol, also compatible with moisturizers and sunscreens. This product actually contains three forms of retinol plus vitamin E in a light base that will not clog pores and is still compatible with moisturizers and sunscreens. Start with the 30 and work up to the 60 if you tolerate it well. Wait 60-90 days for results. And if this product irritates your skin a little, try applying your moisturizer first, then wait 10-20 minutes, then apply this.
Antioxidants, peptides, alpha hydroxy creams
1. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic – $142 US
C E Ferulic is an antioxidant combination that delivers protection against photoaging – neutralizing free radicals, helping build collagen, and providing antioxidant protection. More protection means more youthful looking skin and better defense against sun damage. 15% pure L-ascorbic acid and 1% alpha tocopherol, the addition of ferulic acid (a plant based antioxidant) doubles the synergism. Similar to the Phloretin CF.
2. SkinCeuticals Serum 10 or 20 AOX+ (Vitamin C) – $84 US & $116 US
Good basic Vitamin C serums. Use under your sunscreen. 20% is more effective but try the 10% first if your skin is sensitive at all. If your skin in thicker or on the normal to oily side, the 20% concentration may be fine for you. Some of the SkinCeuticals serums can be a little tacky under makeup. You can use it at night if that bothers you.
3. SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF – $152 US
One of the best antioxidant serums on the market in my opinion. Contains Vitamin C 10% with 2% phloretin and .5% ferrulic acid which together are more effective than either individually. Not irritating but may be too much for the very sensitive. Potent and best with normal to oily skin. Wash, let skin dry for a minute or two, apply and use sunscreen on top. If you need a moisturizer, use it over the serum. And it’s good for melasma and brown spots.
4. SkinCeuticals C + AHA – $130 US
Good antioxidant for acne prone and oily skin because it contains 15% Vitamin C plus 10% alpha hydroxy (glycolic and lactic) which help to keep skin exfoliated and pores unclogged. In a serum which is not oily. Not for sensitive skin. Use after washing but let skin dry first. Sunscreen in the morning over it.
5. Topix Replenix Cream or Gel – $47.95 & $54 US
This is a powerful antioxidant containing 90% polyphenol extracts of green tea. It is gentle and good for all but the most sensitive skin. Many of our patients who find the serums with Vitamin C too irritating, can use this product without problems. This cream version is best for normal to dry skin. Use the Gel if you are oily or have acne prone skin. Good for easily irritated, sensitive skin.
6. NeoStrata Ultra Smoothing Lotion or Cream 10 AHA – $27 & $32 US
This light, nongreasy lotion helps keep the skin smooth and to reverse sun damage by building collagen and speeding natural exfoliation. Use a small amount over entire face. Good choice for teens to early 30s. Budget saver. This lotion is better than the Ultra Smoothing Cream if your skin is quite oily and acne prone. Use the cream if you have dry skin.
Cell growth factors
1. SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum - $237.50 US
I have to confess I love this product. I wish I could bathe in it, but it’s too expensive. It’s the first “double pump” product I’ve seen that works well. You press the plunger and it dispenses your cell growth factor serum (TNS Recovery — the reddish one) AND your antioxidant and peptide mix at the same time. All in just the right amount. There are 7 different antioxidants so it’s hard to compare it with other antioxidant serums (7 is not always better than 1). Has some weak plant based skin lighteners. The effects of the two products together are good and it’s efficient to use. Expensive but worth it, in my opinion.
2. SkinMedical TNS Recovery Complex – $155
SkinMedica pioneered the use of cell growth factors (these are like fertilizers for your skin) with this TNS Recovery Complex. Rest assured, the current version has a better fragrance than the original. No product is a quick fix, so you need to give this 3 to 6 months to see results.
New products, such as anti-glycation creams
1. SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Interrupter – $150 US
A new group in the anti-aging arsenal. You’ll see more of these in the coming months and years. A good idea but I think the jury is still out as to how effective these are in the skin of real women rather than a petri dish. A.G.E. Interrupter is formulated to improve the crepey appearance of mature skin caused by intrinsic aging processes such as glycation. This goes well under Renova at night or you could use it over TNS recovery, for example, in the morning in place of a moisturizer with sunscreen over that. Glycation occurs when excess glucose molecules stick to collagen and elastin fibers, eventually binding them together and leading to the formation of Advanced Glycation End-products (A.G.E.). Glycated collagen and elastin fibers lose the ability to function normally, and the body cannot break them down and replace them, which may contribute to wrinkling of the skin. This is particularly true in diabetics. It is formulated with 4% blueberry extract, 30% proxylane, and 0.2% phytosphingosine to help prevent the glycation process in mature skin. Expensive but may be worth it.
Visit http://www.skintour.com/anti-aging-and-wrinkle-repair to read more or buy any of the products mentioned above. You can also take my Skin Care Test to see which products I recommend for your unique skin profile: http://www.skintour.com/skin-care-tests and watch this video for how to properly apply skin care products: http://www.skintour.com/video-demos/skin-care-product-application-demonstration
And most importantly, don’t forget that sun exposure is the number 1 reason for signs of aging in the skin, including wrinkles. So make sure to use a broad-spectrum UVA and UVB sunscreen every single day!
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Skin Care Information & Anti-Aging Tips with Dr. Irwin